In the beginning

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How did we end up obsessed in love with Skala Eressos?

Mick shares our journey.

At the end of a dusty track below craggy cliffs we sat within a ring of rocks in a pool fed by a blistering hot stream cooled to a smooth sulphurs healing soup by the lapping Aegean-the silence broken only by the trickle of stones from high above as a goat impossibly traversed the cliff face.

Here with our 3 children, and no other souls near by, on the last day of a holiday to Kos many years ago, washed in a need- a desire- to return to Greece and explore the islands at any opportunity.

We first came to Lesvos 12 years ago but on that visit we didn’t make it to the Eressos - Sigri area and regarded it as ‘unfinished business.’ We put this right a few years ago and since then Eressos has had a gravitational affect drawing us back.

The bustle of Mytilini with its harbour-side bars filled with the happy throng of travellers, locals and students primes the senses for the journey through pine forest. Ancient olive groves then begrudgingly give way to new roads that descend to the astonishing Kalloni Bay.  Refreshed with coffee in a street side taverna the road traces the edge of the bay then over a ridge to the mountain moonscape beyond Agra to Mesotopos. All the while the sea far below twinkles and changes with the clear light. It’s sobering to think of the farmers on these ancient terraces watching passing ships and would Helen have looked up to here whilst sailing passed - swept away to Troy?

Winding down the mountains, then the straight flat few miles fills us with anticipation for the food, the Aegean and the wonderful people in this magical corner of the world.


Right then, now what… my words.